Muck Diving in Malaysia

WHERE to dive with hairy frogfish and pygmy seahorses.

It’s got to be the most unappealing sounding sport but, for many divers, muck diving is the holy grail of scuba. And if the name isn’t enough to put you off, the sell that follows might do: with limited visibility, shallow dive sites, no stunning corals and zero chance of seeing deep-sea wrecks or big pelagic fish, it’s a wonder that so many divers have been inspired to try out this painstaking discipline. But those who do, however, rarely look back…

The appeal of muck diving is in the bizarre, extraordinary and disgustingly beautiful. Paradise for photographers, muck diving allows them to capture some of the ocean’s rarest inhabitants, snapping intricate and sophisticated species right up-close, in calm and controlled waters.

Paradise for macro photographers – Nudibranch. Pic: Nicolas Voisin, Flickr.

Instead of competing with your dive buddies to spot sharks and manta-rays, muck divers slowly and meticulously scan the seabed, searching for minute creatures, some less than a centimetre or so long, known as critters. In comparison to most other types of diving, poor visibility, suspended particles and silty sea-beds are of less concern, as the creatures you’re looking for are never more than a few centimetres from your face.

Typical critters to look out for include multi-coloured nudibranchs, pipefish, frogfish and seahorses, but there are millions more species lurking in the muck, many still unidentified, which simply adds to the appeal.

Muck diving in Mabul – Transparent Nudibranch. Pic: Nicolas Voisin, Flickr.

A big attraction of muck diving is that anyone can do it. No special equipment is required and, typically diving at shallower depths, the risk of decompression sickness is reduced. Excellent buoyancy, however, is important – your fellow divers won’t thank you if you spend your muck dive bobbing up and down on the seabed, finning up clouds of silt.

Some of the best muck diving spots in the world are found in South East Asia. Places like the Lembeh Straits and Secret Bay, in Indonesia, enjoy international fame. But one of the most illustrious muck diving sites of all is found in the waters just off Sabah, in Malaysian Borneo.

Mabul Island is a location synonymous with muck diving. Located off the north-east coast of Sabah, a 25 minute boat ride north of Sipadan Island, Mabul is a magnet for muck divers and one of the best places on the planet for macro photography. This tiny island has a coral reef that slips down to form a sandy bottom, freckled with coral growth and teeming with macro life and molluscs. Nudibranchs, shrimp and exotic urchins; purple and red fire gobies; seahorses and multicoloured frogfish can all be found here in clear, 30 degree waters, alongside loads of lobster and crabs, as well as every species of pipefish known to man.

Ghost Pipefish – one of many in Mabul. Pic: Nicolas Voisin, Flickr.

There are stacks of muck diving sites to choose from at Mabul, but the grassy seabed at Crocodile Avenue is a favourite with many. This is the place to see crocodile-fish and garden eels, as well as seamoths, seahorses and the occasional eagle ray. Night dives are also popular here, where you can shine your torch over the colourful cuttlefish, nudibranchs and crabs.

Or, for the best frog-fish encounters, head to the aptly named Froggy Lair, where you can also expect to see cuttlefish and cowries, alongside ornate pipefish and numerous nudibranchs.

Another exciting dive site at Mabul is Eel garden, where colourful gobies and garden eels inhabit a network of tunnels in the sandy seabed. Blue ribbon eels, cleaning shrimp, rose-red frogfish and lemon-coloured moray eels are also commonly sighted here.

Nudibranh nembrotha chamberlaini. Pic: Nicolas Voisin, Flickr.

Muck diving in Malaysia doesn’t have to be all about Mabul though. If you fancy giving it a go but don’t want to make the trek down to Borneo, then Peninsula Malaysia still has some surprisingly good offerings, from the mimic octopus at Pulau Rumbia, on the west coast, to seahorse-filled sites in the north: coral fringed and best known for sea turtles, sharks and spectacular wrecks, muck diving in the Perhentian Islands is often overlooked but, from rarely seen nudibranchs and stacks of seahorses, to frogfish and blue ringed octopus’, it’s all here.

If you enjoyed this article and would like to find out more about travelling to Malaysia, please visit the Tourism Malaysia website

Malaysia's Biggest Annual Sports Events

Post three of my work for Tourism Malaysia this week details the country's best annual sports events. From the Grand Prix to Monsoon Cup, read Malaysia's Biggest Annual Sports Events to find out what's on over the next 12 months.

World's best dive sites?

Malaysia is packed with world-class scuba-diving sites. Three of the very best are:

Layang Layang - an isolated dive spot off  the north coast of Sabah where some of the richest marine biodiversity and clearest waters in Malaysia are found - a magnet for manta rays and hammer head sharks; Sipadan - found in the Celebes Sea and famed for its drop-offs, wall dives and breeding turtles; and Tioman - a jungle-clad island, surrounded  reefs, wrecks and underwater caves.

Find out more about these dive sites in my recent blog for Travelwire Asia, Malaysia: Three of the best dive spots - part of a publication for Tourism Malaysia

Borneo basics

If you've never been to Borneo, better get your skates on. With the rainy season kicking in at the end of October, you've got about eight weeks left of 2012 to discover one of the most magical places on the planet.

For most people, Borneo means orang-utans, and this was the impetus for my first-ever trip to the island, back in 2002. Still at uni, I couldn't have been more excited as I packed my long shirts (to hold back the bugs), rubber boots (to resist the leather-eating peat bogs) and read up on howler monkeys, orang-utan nests and floating villages.

To most people, Borneo means 'orang-utans'

But when I told my friends and family I was off to 'Kalimantan', they hadn't a clue where I was going. Despite being the third largest island on the planet and home to one of the oldest rainforests in the world, only a fraction of UK tourists seem to know that Borneo is actually divided between three separate countries: Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei. 

Borneo's virgin rainforests have suffered from deforestation

Kalimantan, the Indonesian section, covers around 73% of Borneo's land mass. Found in the southern area of the island, it's home to unique peat swamp forests, which harbour rare species, including orang-utans. One of the most heavily forested areas of Borneo, Kalimantan has seen vast sections of its rainforest cleared for the farming and logging industries during the '70s and '80s. With the environmental impacts of these clearances brought to the limelight - most notably through the reduction in orang-utan populations - reforestation programs and environmental campaigns have seen positive steps taken towards the regeneration of Kalimantan's precious habitats in recent years. 

Kalimantan is best known for its orphaned orang-utans

Brunei: Borneo's only sovereign state is found on the north coast and is vastly different to the Indonesian and Malaysian sections of the island. Extensive petroleum and natural gas fields have fuelled significant economic growth, which has made Brunei one of the most developed and wealthiest countries in SE Asia. Nonetheless, Brunei still has its fair share of rainforests, with lowland forests covering much of the country and mountainous forests found further inland. 

Brunei is one of the richest countries in SE Asia

Sabah and Sarawak: Malaysia claims two states in Borneo, together covering around 26% of the island and, for most tourists, this is the place to come. Travel and tourist infrastructure is better than in Kalimantan and, although significant logging for palm oil plantations has occurred here, several wildlife reserves and protected areas make it easier for tourists to interact. Sabah and Sarawak also offer some of the best opportunities for hiking in Borneo, and with well-marked trails in the national parks, exploring without a guide is manageable.  

Sabah and Sarawak have some of the most accessible hiking trails in  Borneo

Read more about my adventures in Kalimantan in my article 'Up the creek in an orange carton', which was long-listed for the Bradt Travel Writing Awards 2011, or discover the Best places to hike in Sabah and Sarawak in my recent blog-post for Travelwire Asia - an article that was part of a publication for Tourism Malaysia. 

The Isle of Wight: How to holiday in Yarmouth

Less than half an hour's hop across the Solent, The Isle of Wight remains one of England's most accessible island retreats. Earlier this month, I spent a spectacular weekend here, just outside the town of Yarmouth, where we walked, ran, fished, surfed, dined, drank and soaked up the sights.

Yarmouth - Isle of Wight

Here's how to repeat the experience...

Getting there

On foot – A  high-speed catamaran service runs between Portsmouth train station and Ryde harbour (Iow), with a journey time of 20 minutes. Foot passengers can also take the slower, but cheaper, car ferry from Portsmouth harbour (a 10 minute walk from Portsmouth train station). To arrive in Yarmouth itself, from Lymington Pier (New Forest)  take the Wight Link ferry directly to Yarmouth. Details of all services can be found at the Wight Link website. Alternatively, Red Funnel operate the service from Southampton to East Cowes.When on the island, The Isle of Wight also runs a very effective public transport service – see Island Buses.

By car – Car ferries leave hourly, every day of the week between Portsmouth and Ryde; Southampton and East Cowes; and Lyminton and Yarmouth. See the Wight Link or Red Funnel website.

Staying there

With a family of 6, a baby and a dog - Fulfilling the needs of our ever-growing family, we stayed at Treetops holiday cottage, just outside Yarmouth. We choose this three bedroom bungalow for its spacious lounge and huge landscaped garden - ideal for bbqs, lawn games and Twiglet the dog.

Up to 8 people: There's plenty of options for larger lodgings. For something even bigger, this fresh, light and spacious cottage is well-equipped and offers an additional cot room, if needed: Cottage for 8.

A family of 4: Yarmouth has lots to choose from in the way of 2-beds too: This snug cottage maybe overly cosy but it's superbly central, if getting to the shops, restaurants and drinking holes is more important than personal space.

As a couple: From B&Bs to luxury hotels, couples can take their pick...

Medlars - think quaint country cottage with crisp linen  

The George hotel - expect panelled walls, four poster beds and views across the solent (luxury)
The Boat House - an open-plan studio apartment in a converted boathouse which sites right on the beach.

The Bugle Inn - basic rooms in a central location

Where to...

Have coffee in the sun: Norton Grange has a spectacular waterfront coffee lounge, set on manicured lawns that overlook the Solent. It's a five minute walk from  Treetops holiday cottage, or Yarmouth town.

Norton Grange coffee spot

Have coffee when it’s wet: The Gossips Café in Yarmouth town is a fantastic little find, with great views across the Solent.  We went for yummy cream-teas and  delicious ice-creams when a storm was brewing and watched the boats struggling in the winds.

Gossips Cafe

Drink wine by the water: By far the best place in Yarmouth for outside drinking is the George Hotel. Don't be put off by the quieter than quiet lobby or the subdued bar area - walk right through to the back and you'll find a beer garden that beats all others, at just the right angle to catch the evening rays.

The 'beer garden' at the George Hotel

Have a few pints:  The Bugle Inn  was our favourite drinking hole in Yarmouth. With a decked beer garden and plenty of cubby-holes and booth areas to sit in, there's a good vibe here and always plenty of seating. The menu looked good too.

Eat somewhere a bit different: Salty’s fish restaurant, in Yarmouth, is reputed to be one of the best, as well as most interesting, places to eat on the island. However, it was closed (without explanation) when we were there. Plan B was to try On the Rocks, where you can cook your own steaks and seafood on black volcanic rocks. Sadly, another dead end for us, so we ended up at the Red Lion in Freshwater, where the food was fine and the landlord fantastically friendly.

Salty's - when open

Buy the best bread: The Deli in the centre of Yarmouth bakes lovely loaves – not to be missed! Also a good place to pick up cheeses and luxury versions of most groceries, from gourmet granola to posh pasta - although Cost Cutter across the road is far cheaper.

How to…

Walk to The Needles: The Isle of Wight Coastal Path run right through Yarmouth Town and starts just a few paces from Treetops holiday cottage. The seven mile stroll to the Isle of Wight's most iconic feature takes you along sandy beaches, walking through woods and clambering along cliff-tops. Follow the footpath as far as the Needles and catch a bus back to Yarmouth, or carry on as far as Brighstone (14 miles).   Be sure to stop off at Barefoot on the Beach cafe and restaurant in Colwell Bay for teas, local ice-creams or lunch. They also do evening meals, which range from moules frites, to beef and oyster pie with wasabi mash. See this map of the walking route for details.

The Needles - a landmark not to be missed

Go surfing: The Isle of Wight’s best surf beach is just a few miles drive away at Freshwater Bay. Compton Bay is also an option. Hire boards and book lessons with the island's mobile surf school.

Surf lessons in the Isle of Wight

Go mackerel fishing: Black Rock Charters offer mackerel spinning trips between May and September on their 31ft boat, complete with a loo and a galley. Other trips on offer include private charters and full day fishing trips.

Ready for the barbeque

Swim safely in the sea: Yarmouth’s bathing area is clearly marked with a ring of yellow buoys, and can be found just to the west of the river. We took a dip and found the water to be spectacularly clear and funny-stuff-free. The beach itself is also pleasant and the sunken wooden groynes make an ideal perch for drying wet feet.

Go for an easy pub walk: There are plenty of pubs in Yarmouth itself, but if you want to amble for your ale, follow the F1 Freshwater footpath to the Red Lion. The footpath takes in stunning views down towards the harbour, as you stroll through fields of clover, bluebells, buttercups and black sheep.  It’s a beautiful 1.5 mile walk to the pub, where the food is good and the landlord is fantastically welcoming – just don’t forget to switch off your phone as the Red Lion is a mobile-free zone and any offenders will be required to pay a £1 fine to the RNLI.

If teas and cakes are more your thing, stop just before the pub at the Kings Manor Farm and enjoy clotted cream and scones in the sun. You can also stock up on meat and cheese at the farm shops.

Have a hearty morning run: You can’t beat a morning run along the beach, through a field, wood or along a river bank – at Yarmouth you get all four. Set off along the F1 walking route towards the Red Lion. At the Red Lion, turn left towards Freshwater Bay and then break off left again to run back to Yarmouth along the marked bridleway. This wide path takes you through the woods and back into Yarmouth harbour along the river. Cross the road at Yarmouth to jog home along the seafront (stopping off for a dip in the bathing area if it takes your fancy) and then back to Treetops along the road. A fantastic four mile start to the day!

A round-up of my trips this year

So far, 2012 has seen me swimming in Antarctica, riding waves in Morocco and walking on Wight. 

Here's a quick round-up of my 2012 trips so far:

January

Antarctica: I spent three weeks at the end of the world, travelling onboard the M/S Expedition with G-Adventures - see January and February's Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica, blog posts for the highlights. The trip was a prize for winning The Guardian's Adventure Travel Writing competition 2012. An article about my experiences 'down south' will be featured in the Guardian's travel pages later this year.

February

Dorset and The New Forest: Having thawed out from Antarctica, I took a group of A-level Geography students to two of my favourite UK travel destinations: Studland Bay and The New Forest. White-sanded beaches, unseasonally warm weather, New Forest Ponies and the smell of pine needles... there really is no need to travel to the ends of the earth to feel completely contented. Highlights included afternoon teas at Acres Down Farm and cream buns in Lyndhurst - both cake-related activities, I know.

March

Northern Ireland: On commission with The Mail on Sunday I visited Belfast to celebrate the official opening of Titanic Belfast - now the biggest Titanic experience in the world. Read my full article at The Mail Online: Putting Northern Ireland's Capital back on the Map.

April

Morocco: Writing for TNT Magazine, I spent a week at Surf Maroc, in Taghazout, as a member of a 'girls only' surf camp. Alongside surfing down the face of double-overhead waves and soaring through barrels (yeah, right), the complete package included souk shopping, Moroccan hammams and massages, traditional teas and film evenings - pretty much my ideal holiday! To find out more, read my article at TNT online: Babes on Boards; or flick to p70 of the TNT emag.

French Alps: Travelling with the superb YSE Chalets and catching a lift back to the airport with the super-efficient Snowdrop Transfers, I spent a long weekend in Val d'Isere, chasing 'fluro-onesies', straight-skiers and mono-boards around the mountain. To find out more, you'll have to wait to read my article in Ski and Board Magazine in one of next season's magazines.

May

Isle of Wight: Popping over for the Isle of Wight Walking Festival, I'm in the process of testing-out a stack of shiny new gear from Berghaus. So far, my Exterra Trek walking boots have stomped from Yarmouth to The Needles, and tried to catch up with the end of 'Walk the Wight' - a 26 mile yomp from Bembridge to the Needles.  

Upcoming trips...

May: Next weekend I'll be journeying down to Devon for a weekend of surfing in Bigbury Bay and rowing up the River Yealm, at Newton Ferrers.

June: Fingers crossed for the weather, as I'll be exploring my home city of Brighton, as well as Canadian canoeing down the River Wye, stepping out on the brand new All Wales Coastpath and, if time permits, popping over to Northern Spain to check out the early summer swells.

July: It's off to the Scilly Isles for me this summer. I'll be discovering how to do the 'Scillies on a shoestring', experiencing the more extreme side of the isles, as well as exploring the uninhabited islands of one of England's largest archipelagos. I'll be writing for The Online Travel Journal and am looking to take on more commissions - feel free to contact me for content.

August: On my annual pilgrimage to Menorca, I'll be looking forward to seeing the Cami de Cavalls footpath restoration one year on, as well as exploring as many of the island's hidden beaches and coves as  I can via kayak.

Sport Diver Awards 2012

The dive gloves are off! Sport Diver Magazine has announced the launch of its 2012 scuba-diving awards and the votes are already coming in. This is your chance to support your favourite people, places, manufacturers and businesses in the dive market. Voting is open throughout February and March, with the winners announced at the London International Dive Show in late-March.

In addition to promoting excellence in the dive industry, voters will also be in with a chance of winning one of two prize packages, each worth around £5,500. Both prize packages include a week-long Red Sea liveaboard holiday, as well as a stack of scuba equipment.

Prize one is a Red Sea liveaboard adventure, courtesy of blueotwo.com and includes a 5mm O’Neill wetsuit, Otter Watersports drysuit, dive computer, BCD, hoses and regs, Epoque camera and housing, underwater photography course and loads more.

Prize two’s Red Sea liveaboard holiday is courtesy of Scuba Travel and includes a 3mm Proteus wetsuit and Robin Hood Watersports drysuit, with hoses, regs and stacks more scuba stuff from other top brands.

THE CATEGORIES:

Best Manufacturer (Code: MANS)
The brand that you think can be relied on every-time, to deliver top-notch gear.

Best Tour Operator (Code: TOUR)
The company that has given you your best-ever dive experiences, helping you to plan your perfect trip and offering expert advice along the way.

Best Liveaboard (Code: LIVE)
If you’ve stayed on a fantastic liveaboard that was well-run with attentive staff and an astounding
itinerary, this is your chance to vote for them.

Best UK Dive Centre (Code: UK)
Which local dive centre truly embraces the spirit of UK diving? Perhaps they organise outstanding trips, host excellent parties, or are true experts in your local area.

Best Overseas Dive Centre (Code: OS)
Who shines in the competitive overseas dive market? Is there one centre that truly stands out from the rest?

Best Retailer (Code: RETAIL)
Which shop/retailer always stocks the best kit, offers affordable prices, expert advice and spectacular customer service?

Best Product (Code: PROD)
What’s the one bit of kit you love more than anything else in the world? Your super-comfy rash vest? Your uber-cool BCD? Your speedy pair of fins? Share the love by voting.

Best PADI Instructor (Code: PADI)
Big-up your instructor by texting the name of the person who confidently, safely and expertly guided you through a PADI course, whether it was your Open Water or Assistant Instructor qualification.

Best dive-related website (Code: WEB)
Which dive website do you consider a real hub in the scuba community? Which so you always come back to for holidays, gear tips and scuba news?

[CODE] [ANSWER] [EMAIL]
To vote, send in a text to 80058 stating which category you’d like to vote in, along with the name of the organisation/brand/person you’d like to nominate and your email address.

Texts cost 50p plus your standard network rate, and you get a free text for every two paid-for texts – you can vote as many times as you like for different categories.