Less than half an hour's hop across the Solent, The Isle of Wight remains one of England's most accessible island retreats. Earlier this month, I spent a spectacular weekend here, just outside the town of Yarmouth, where we walked, ran, fished, surfed, dined, drank and soaked up the sights.
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| Yarmouth - Isle of Wight |
Here's how to repeat the experience...
Getting there
By car – Car ferries leave hourly, every day of the week between Portsmouth and Ryde; Southampton and East Cowes; and Lyminton and Yarmouth. See the
Staying there
Up to 8 people: There's plenty of options for larger lodgings. For something even bigger, this fresh,
light and spacious cottage is well-equipped and offers an additional cot room, if
needed: Cottage for 8.
A family of 4: Yarmouth has lots to choose from in the way of 2-beds too: This snug cottage maybe overly cosy but it's superbly central, if getting to the shops, restaurants and
drinking holes is more important than personal space.
As a couple: From B&Bs to luxury hotels, couples can take their pick...
Medlars - think quaint country cottage with crisp linen
The George hotel - expect panelled walls, four poster beds and views across the solent (luxury)
The Boat House - an open-plan studio apartment in a converted boathouse which sites right on the beach.
The Boat House - an open-plan studio apartment in a converted boathouse which sites right on the beach.
The Bugle Inn - basic rooms in a central location
Where to...
Have coffee in
the sun: Norton Grange has a spectacular waterfront coffee lounge, set on
manicured lawns that overlook the Solent. It's a five minute walk from
Treetops holiday cottage, or Yarmouth town.
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| Norton Grange coffee spot |
Have coffee
when it’s wet: The Gossips Café in Yarmouth town is a fantastic little
find, with great views across the Solent.
We went for yummy cream-teas and
delicious ice-creams when a storm was brewing and watched the boats struggling in the winds.
Drink wine by the water: By far the best place in Yarmouth for outside drinking is the George Hotel. Don't be put off by the quieter than quiet lobby or the subdued bar area - walk right through to the back and you'll find a beer garden that beats all others, at just the right angle to catch the evening rays. |
| Gossips Cafe |
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| The 'beer garden' at the George Hotel |
Have a few pints: The Bugle Inn was our favourite drinking hole in Yarmouth. With a decked beer garden and plenty of cubby-holes and booth areas to sit in, there's a good vibe here and always plenty of seating. The menu looked good too.
Eat
somewhere a bit different: Salty’s fish restaurant, in Yarmouth, is reputed to be one of the best, as
well as most interesting, places to eat on the island. However, it was closed
(without explanation) when we were there. Plan B was to try On the Rocks, where you can cook your own steaks and seafood on black volcanic rocks. Sadly, another dead end for us, so we ended up at the Red Lion in Freshwater, where the food was fine and the landlord fantastically friendly.
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| Salty's - when open |
Buy the best bread: The Deli in the centre of Yarmouth bakes lovely loaves – not to be
missed! Also a good place to pick up cheeses and luxury versions of
most groceries, from gourmet granola to posh pasta - although Cost Cutter across the road is far cheaper.
How to…
Walk to The Needles: The Isle of Wight Coastal Path run right through Yarmouth Town and starts just a few paces from Treetops
holiday cottage. The seven mile stroll
to the Isle of Wight's most iconic feature takes you along sandy beaches, walking through woods and clambering along cliff-tops. Follow the footpath as far as the Needles and catch a bus back to Yarmouth, or carry on as far as Brighstone (14 miles). Be sure to stop off at Barefoot on the Beach cafe and restaurant in Colwell Bay for teas, local ice-creams or lunch. They also do evening meals, which
range from moules frites, to beef and oyster pie with wasabi mash. See this map of the walking route for details.
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| The Needles - a landmark not to be missed |
Go surfing: The Isle of Wight’s best surf beach is just a few miles drive away at
Freshwater Bay. Compton Bay is also an option. Hire boards and book lessons
with the island's mobile surf school.
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| Surf lessons in the Isle of Wight |
Go mackerel fishing: Black Rock Charters offer mackerel spinning trips between May and September on their 31ft boat, complete with a loo and a galley. Other
trips on offer include private charters and full day fishing trips.
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| Ready for the barbeque |
Swim safely in the
sea: Yarmouth’s bathing area is clearly marked with a ring of yellow buoys, and
can be found just to the west of the river. We took a dip and found the water
to be spectacularly clear and funny-stuff-free. The beach itself is also pleasant
and the sunken wooden groynes make an ideal perch for drying wet feet.
Go for an easy pub
walk: There are plenty of pubs in Yarmouth itself, but if you want to amble for your ale, follow the F1 Freshwater
footpath to the Red Lion.
The footpath takes in stunning views down towards the harbour, as you stroll through
fields of clover, bluebells, buttercups and black sheep. It’s a beautiful 1.5 mile walk to the pub,
where the food is good and the landlord is fantastically welcoming – just don’t
forget to switch off your phone as the Red Lion is a mobile-free zone and any
offenders will be required to pay a £1 fine to the RNLI.
If teas and cakes are more your thing, stop just before the
pub at the Kings Manor Farm and enjoy clotted cream and scones in the sun. You can also stock up on meat
and cheese at the farm shops.
Have a hearty morning
run: You can’t beat a morning run along the beach, through a field, wood or
along a river bank – at Yarmouth you get all four. Set off along the F1 walking route towards the
Red Lion. At the Red Lion, turn left towards Freshwater Bay and then break off
left again to run back to Yarmouth along the marked bridleway. This wide path
takes you through the woods and back into Yarmouth harbour along the river.
Cross the road at Yarmouth to jog home along the seafront (stopping off for a
dip in the bathing area if it takes your fancy) and then back to Treetops along
the road. A fantastic four mile start to the day!
